The next account of the voyage is from one Mathew Eaglesome (1825 – 1892)
London, October 1, 1856. — Embarked on board the ship Rose of Sharon on Wednesday, October 1, bound from London to New Zealand, with passengers and general cargo: cleared the docks about 2prn and were towed down to Gravesend where we lay at anchor until October 4.
On board everything was in the greatest confusion, which is always the case.
We were quite comfortable, having fitted our cabins previous to our coming on board, which I would recommend every emigrant to do if possible for their own comfort.
October 4. – Set sail at 7am and were again tugged out by steamer until evening, when we came to anchor.
October 5. – Sabbath morning. Was aroused at daylight with the sailors singing "Cheerily Men Ho" "Whiskey, Boys, for Johnny," etc. Wind very light throughout the day, ship travelling only 3 knots an hour. It is very pleasant to walk the poop deck. As there are two clergymen on board we have had forenoon and evening sermons — the one at 11 o'clock on deck, and the other at 8pm between decks in our departments, where a good many of the cuddy gentry attended. Came to anchor in the evening.
October 6 – Again set sail, with a fair wind, and a beautiful view of the coast. The pilot left us at the Downs. What a merry old fellow he was! He took all our letters ashore. Had splendid view of Dover as we passed it. Ship going 9 knots all day. Everything on board getting into better order, and we getting better acquainted with the regulations.
October 7 – Calm today. Ship rolling greatly, and sickness prevailing amongst the ladies. I will now give short comments on our fellow passengers. First of all, there are 40 first class. The principal nobility are Mr and Mrs Jackson and seven children, with governess, lady's maid, and man servant. Next in the rank is Rev Mr Hodge and Mrs Hodge and family of four children. Rev. Mr Fendall and two daughters. Both of the above are clergymen of the Church of England, but not Puseyites. Next comes Mr and Mrs Lamb, with one child and nurse, Mr and Mrs Revees, with one child and nurse, Mrs Arrowsmith, and two daughters, Mrs Ormond and two children who keep us in music day and night which reminds me of Johnny and little Ellan singing out both at once, Mr Purnell and his brother, Misses Hammond, Brown, and Lane, which are all our first class gentry.
There are only eleven passengers in the second class: Mr and Mrs Milly, Mr and Mrs Candy, Mr and Mrs Page, Captain George Armstrong, who sleeps in our berths. As we are all single men they crammed us all in together. Captain Armstrong is an Irish gentlemen who has been a captain in the army; who evidently has been sent out of his country by his people.
The third class numbers sixty three – a mixed lot of English, Irish, and Scotch – nearly all mechanics, storekeepers, etc, etc. There are first, second, and third mates, Five Midshipmen, carpenter, boatsman, sailmaker, two cooks, butcher, fifteen sailors, two boys, Captain Southern, and Dr Wigan complete our ships company. Also three cuddy stewards and one between deck steward, intended for the second cabin, the officers, and six of the first class gentlemen formed a mess and sit at our table, and have taken our steward. However, we intend to make them pay for him, but enough of this stuff.
October 8 and 9 – Beautiful weather wind very light. Have spent the time very pleasantly on the poop reading, walking and talking. The Rose is passing every vessel we have seen as yet – fine sport to see two of the gentlemen passengers going up the rigging, and before they knew where they were, the sailors had them lashed hands and feet until they paid a fine, which is two bottles of grog, both captain and mate in chase.
October 10, Friday – Market day in Stranear — was thinking of old times. This is a beautiful morning with light wind and fair. What a gorgeous sight to look at a rising and setting sun at sea!
October 11 – Contrary winds today. Ship's course changed, our course for the past two days S-West half West, and a strong wind has caused the ship to roll greatly. Sickness pretty general. We have all been busy today. Beds all aired, and our stores for a week given out, cabins washed out etc.
October 15 – Have had three rough days crossing the Bay of Biscay. Passengers, nearly all sick. We had a stud sail boom carried away. I have often been more sick in a steamer, but we are all suffering from a change of diet, and also for want of proper medicine.
October 16 – Weather calmer. Ship rolling heavy. Everyone who is able is going on deck today and mending fast. Ship doing 9 knots, and seasickness subsiding. Mr Reeves is still very ill and has been so all the way. What a fine fellow our captain is joining in every amusement on the poop with old and young, of the latter there are a good many, four families going out to settle. Good encouragement for the young people when whole families go out to live and be better off than in England.
It is most amusing to enter into conversation with fellow passengers, each asking you what you intend doing, etc. Oh, you are sure to do well. Any person brought up to farming is the sort for New Zealand. A good many of the dandy gents talk of going out to take up farming. I only wish I saw them at it, so that I might get a lesson!
October 17 – 18th – Two fine days, wind light and rather ahead. I don't feel at all well yet, have started to live on porridge and oatmeal gruel. Weather improving and days lengthening.
October 19 Sabbath – Mild day, with slight showers. Had sermons today, as our parsons have recovered from sickness.
October 20 – Strong breeze, fair wind, all day. Great excitement on board. We sighted a ship thought to be homeward bound. She had got her rigging carried away and was seemingly in distress. Our ship slowed down to speak to her while everyone hurried to write letters, but alas, when nearing her she bore away another course, after we had been sailing about twenty miles out of our course. She was at once set down as a "Yankee dodger!"
October 21 and 22 – Calmer weather, with heavy showers. Old Lady Jackson growling about the second-class passengers going on the poop deck. I am sure we won't think long on the voyage if she lives to see the end of it, as she is always growling about something. Caught some fresh water for washing, and in the evening had a dancing and singing on the poop.
[Considering that "Old Lady Jackson" (Honoria) had at the age of 15 taken on a husband and 4 or 5 step children and then had a dozen of her own – that she was coming with the seven youngest, one of whom was gravely ill and died soon after arrival, and that this was a journey of 3 and a half months on a sailing vessel, it may not be surprising that she did some growling. O.J.]
October 23 to 25. – All delighted this morning to know we had got the trade winds. It is beautiful clear sky, with fine breeze of fair wind. We have now the awning put up on the poop to keep the sun from us. It is beautiful to sit in the shade and enjoy the cool breeze in the heat of the day.
I had almost forgotten to say, since coming into the hot weather I find myself under the necessity to drink porter every day. I'm afraid it will teach me a bad habit, but the sea life is very different to land. Neither medicine nor spirits has the same effect. I could stand three times as much of either of them at sea.
October 26. Sabbath – We have now come to a crisis in the voyage. Last night about midnight, a regular row broke out. The watch on deck all got drunk, and three of them were caught in the forehold broaching a barrel of grog, and were at once ordered to be put in irons. When the whole affair became evident, ill-will at the first mate was the cause, and this was their plan – when he was putting them in irons they made an attempt to pitch him overboard. However, he escaped with the loss of his cap. All day the crew showed signs of mutiny. The passengers to a man were all ready if called upon to assist in putting all in irons.
It was rather an anomaly after sermon to get armed and walk the poop until the Captain and officers searched all the sailors and steerage passengers for arms and spirits. They found a lot of firearms, but all kept quiet. In the evening all the able-bodied passengers were told off to keep watch on the fore and main holds. My watch was from 12 to 4 but everything was quiet, and the soldiers laughed at us for our trouble. On Monday the men were brought up for trial, and all liberated on the promise of good conduct in future, the mate being reproved for want of attention to both passengers and crew.
This being the Captain's birthday, as soon as all was settled, everyone on board enjoyed themselves by drinking our worthy Captain's health with three times three. Our party of ten settled four bottles of wine. David McMillan reminded me that this was the day of Girvan Fair at home. I am sure we all enjoyed ourselves better in the Rose of Sharon than we could have at any fair. How soon people get accustomed to sea life. In fine weather every night we have singing and dancing, whichever you choose to join, but no forcing – if you don't like it, let it alone.
October 28 to November 1. – We have now been five days in the tropics – trade winds light, and weather very hot. Most of the delicate people suffering from headaches, of which there are quite a good many – among the rest. The clothes worn here are of a lightest description. A single sheet is all the bedclothes we can use.
November 2 to 4 – The last three days have been very squally wet weather – the squalls come all in a sudden and are generally followed by heavy showers.
November 5 – Weather fine today. Sighted another ship homeward bound. Letters got ready again, but alas she never answered our signals. The Captain called her a Spanish Brig. He said she ought to be brought to a cannon ball if he had got one, to give her a lesson.
November 6 – A very wet day. Were caught by heavy squalls with sails all set. It was really grand and terrific. A great many sails were torn to rags, but no damage done. We were all running pulling ropes until wet to the skin, and enjoyed the fun first-rate of getting tumbled down. But while the gale lasted it was past fun with the ship on her beam ends and ladies screaming etc.
November 7 and 8 – Two fine days with fresh winds, supposed to be the southeast trades. It is now five weeks since the Rose sailed away from Gravesend. Tomorrow we expect to cross the line. We have had a great deal of head wind, which drove us a long way west of the proper course, as three weeks, in a fair wind, is common time in crossing the line. So far the voyage promises to be a long one.
November 9 – Sabbath. Our ship crossed the line about 4am today
November 10 – Ship put about as we are close to the coast of South America. After the usual preparation of Neptune and his attendants the operation of shaving commenced of all on board who never had crossed the line before. Anyone who declined to get shaved got free by paying two or three bottles of rum, most of the passengers preferring the latter.
Altogether it was a first rate sport, but to attempt a description of it would take up too much space. Suffice it to say the razor was about 3ft long, made of hoop-iron, and all the rest of the shaving apparatus in proportion. After shaving the head is rubbed over with tar, and then they are tumbled over the head into a sail full of salt water, the pumps and hose play upon them, and all engaged. They finish up by tearing a feather bed to pieces and decking each other all over with feathers until everyone of them is covered.
November 11 – Sighted land twelve o'clock, supposed to be Cape St Roque. We saw land quite distinctly, and a great many coasting vessels. It was very lucky it was daylight, or most likely we would have found ourselves among the rocks, as our first mate generally gets drunk at night and sleeps on his watch. The wind is right ahead ever since crossing the line. The ship is put about every eight hours. Weather very pleasant, but rather too hot in our cabins to sleep comfortably.
November 12 and 13 – Nothing of much interest, except the ladies vieing with one another which will show off most dresses daily. Old Lady Jackson reminds me of Miss Kennedy, and Mrs Lamb is so like Jeanie Thomson. Sometimes I look around to see if it is Jean's voice talking about bonnets!
November 14 to 19 – Beautiful weather, Spoke two ships, both outward bound – one to China and the other to West Indies. We might have sailed in a small pleasure yacht for the last eight days and time passed very pleasantly in good weather, when the ladies don't raise a squall among themselves, which, unfortunately, happens almost daily. Mrs Lamb gave birth to a stillborn child yesterday and is very ill today.
November 20 to 23 – Three beautiful days with fine wind. All on board looking better as we are now getting into cooler weather. The heat very oppressive as we were four weeks in the tropics. On Sunday I was rather surprised to hear David McMillan strike up a song. ‘We'll a' be merry’, etc. Now how soon young people learn new habits, especially bad ones, after sermon all sorts whistle and sing all sorts of things.
November 24 to 26 – Kind fair winds ship going straight for Cape of Good Hope, and although only 10 degrees of latitude from it, we are 48 degrees longitude - upwards of 3000 miles too far west.
November 17 to 29 – The weather has changed. Now strong northwest winds with heavy showers. Ship going ten to eleven knots, and none of us feel the least sickness though I always fancy we will when it is very rough. Last night was very rough, the ship rolling fearfully. Just fancy about midnight she gave three or four tremendous rolls when down came books and bottles and boxes full of bonnets etc., all tumbling topsy-turvy, followed by water pouring down on our heads, when all gentlemen between decks got up in their nightshirts and commenced larking, dusting each other with flour – such a row I never heard. Good-bye to sleep for two nights. My berth is across the ship so that I can't sleep when the ship rolls. Another yardarm carried away.
November 30 to December 6 – We are going along most beautifully from 10 to 12 knots. All week the weather has changed very fast from heat to cold. We are enjoying what the soldiers call Cape weather. However we have seen no rough stormy weather yet, and are getting first-rate sailing. We now never think of getting sick, our time is taken up from morning to night, so that we never feel the time passing, with cooking, cleaning and reading, walking, dancing, singing, enjoying birthdays, etc, etc.
Last night we were all invited by Mr Love to a bowl of punch in honour of his birthday, which consisted of two bottles of rum, one bottle of brandy and half a bottle of lime juice, and that renewed as often as required until all the company were jolly – no person drunk but all merry. Such is life in the Rose of Sharon off the Cape of Good Hope.
December 7 – Wind ahead. Ship not going her course. Sermon inside the cuddy today. I find I am elected clerk of both diets and worship now, and that I have to stand up and say 'Amen', and lead the singing with as much brass as if I knew it.
December 8 to 13 – Strong head winds all the week. Though ship is pitching greatly, it is good exercise to walk the deck and also to get a few tumbles. One morning I came down all my length and spilt my porridge. Another day a pot of rice.
Well, if we were half-killed you couldn't help laughing – at least I can't.
Last night Helen fell down at her own cabin door and hurt herself. Well I laughed right out to see her lying growling. Next to the falls and seas breaking and coming over and covering someone or other over the head, such a roar of laughter will come from all parts of the ship.
On Saturday night a fine row took place. The third Mate and Mr ----'s three sons got drunk. The mate was put in irons and tied down to his bed post. He was just like a madman. The oldest of the sons was so beastly drunk that he had to be carried to bed, and the Captain had the parents sent for to see him. Well, the poor old man took it very badly, but the old lady stormed out at the Captain and first mate tremendously. She would make a first-rate tavern-keeper. At least it strikes me she would able to keep a lot of drunken men in order.
December 14 – Sunday. Wind more favourable today. Mr Fendall gave us two sermons.
December 15 – What a change in everyone's countenance this morning as the ship is going the right course. Spoke the ship Thomas Arbuthnot from London bound for Australia, steaming more south. A great many of the passengers blame the Captain for going father south today. We are in 38 deg south latitude and 35 deg east longitude. Last week we were 44 deg south, and we ought to be in 50 deg south to catch the proper winds.
December 16 – Ship put about three times in about two hours today. Wind so variable. Towards evening a fair wind and all sail set once more. Before going to bed we were rather surprised to learn that Mrs ---- and her fine daughters were coming to sleep between decks and send the boys to the cuddys. This was a fine chance for gentlemen to kick up a row, which they did do in style. About one o'clock in the morning I was wakened by the noise of the Captain and the two ladies at Mr Love's cabin door, accusing him of pulling open their cabin. What a face the old lady had to go and call the Captain at such an hour! It would have served her right to have her put in irons and taken back to her own cabin. She dared anyone to do it again, as she would shoot the first one who came in her way.
December 17 to 20 – Blowing fresh today and heavy sea on. I had a narrow escape from getting my head cracked. I had just left the cook's galley, the ship gave a tremendous roll, a great many spars and loose boards came tumbling around my ears. The cook and all inside the galley were all upset, flour, butter, pies, pots, and pans were sent adrift. However, all escaped unhurt. Our brave captain was very ill for two days but today he is better. We are in 44 deg S latitude, and 48 deg east longitude: weather getting colder again.
December 22 – Sunday. We got two sermons from Mr Hodge today as Mr Fendall is unwell.
December 23 – Strong wind, with showers. What a curious lot of passengers we have got, always growling about something. Great complaints among the first class passengers in regard to the food. The ship is doing 10 knots an hour today and another studsail boom has carried away.
December 24 to 17 – Great preparations for Christmas Day. Baking plum puddings, cakes, etc.
Christmas Day – Had a sermon between decks, when the Sacrament was dispensed to members of the English Church; then for the dinner. Everyone enjoyed themselves until a late hour. The whole of our cuddy gentry came down between decks to drink punch, and spend a very merry night. Next night a lot of the gentlemen acted a play on the stage erected for this purpose, the ladies appearing in full dress, all being highly delighted; in fact, we had almost forgotten we were on board ship. The gentry finished up with supper and punch, the same as last night.
December 28 to 31 – Fine, fair winds, ship doing 10 knots for past 8 days, and we are getting along very jolly now, having erected what we call a sofa in our cabin, which is a cabin between decks. We have visitors every night, until we are packed like herrings in a barrel.
January 1, 1857 – A wet, disagreeable day on deck. Kept New Year's Day in the English style by dancing the old year out and the new one in. Another play was acted and a ball came off afterwards and all finished up with a grand supper and punch. The meeting broke up at 3 o'clock the next morning. I went on deck to see who was in charge of the ship. I found just as I expected – no person except the man at the wheel, and it was a great wonder he wasn't drunk also. The officers and men all drunk, and the Captain has been unwell for the past month, but was able to enjoy the sport with the ladies, as he is a real ladies' man. I forgot to mention that there are likely two or three marriages to be made at the end of the voyage. The two Miss Arrowsmiths are engaged, one to Dr Wigan and the other to one of the passengers. Mr Brown is smitten also with one of the Miss Fendalls, and the third mate with Miss Hodges, and so on. Married men and ladies, all sorts of matches.
January 2 to 3 – Fine, fair winds, but getting very cold. We are now in 50 deg. S. Latitude and in the longitude of Australia. We are expecting a storm as the Rose of Sharon was dismasted her last two voyages off the coast of Australia. The third mate and boatswain are under arrest for disobeying orders, and I expect another mutiny before we land.
January 4 – Ship going along 10 knots. Both sermons today between decks, as old Lady Jackson won't go to hear Mr Fendall preach anymore. I understand he took part in getting the acting on stage. Mr Hodge was greatly against it, but Mrs Hodge and daughter are always at the head of any fancy sports, particularly dancing. The poor old fellow has to carry down their breakfast every morning since they came downstairs to sleep, as they are always sick in the morning, although they can play cards until 12 o'clock on Saturday night with two young gents, and then talk away for two hours before going to sleep.
January 8, 1857 – Wind fair, though we had one very rough night this week. The boatswain was put in irons for refusing to work. I believe it is all the first mate's fault, who has turned out to be a real rascal. He had got charge of Mrs ----, and he is of late attending to nothing else but getting drunk, kicking up rows, and sitting in Mrs ----'s, cabin. I think she is as fond of her grog now as he is. None of the cabin ladies speak to her now, she has so disgraced herself She is going out to join her husband at Wellington, where he is a sheep farmer. I pity his case with such a wife.
January 9 – It blew a whole gale all day. I had good mind of the old January 7 at home. We were on deck nearly all night, pulling ropes, and it did blow fearfully. What a splendid sight to see the good ship rising to the waves mountains high. This was the only time the topsails were all close reefed since leaving England. The man at the wheel had his leg nearly broken. A lot of the sails were torn to pieces. Our cabin was filled with water which made it rather uncomfortable.
January 10 – Wind gone down greatly but sea is running high. We have now cleared Hobart Town, and are standing right in for New Zealand.
January 11 to 14 – Fair wind and ship going along steadily in the right course. We expect to sight land on the 14th. Weather a great deal warmer again.
January 15 – Was delighted to hear the sound of "land ahead" at four o'clock in the morning. David M'Millan and I ran up to foremast and got a splendid view. It was a range of mountains in the middle island at the entrance to Cook Strait. At eight o'clock we passed Cape Farewell, when the wind changed right ahead and began to blow a whole gale, which lasted all day. In the evening we sighted Mount Egmont, near New Plymouth. What a grand sight to see it towering up out of the sea 8838 feet high, top shaped like a sugar loaf and covered a great way down with snow.
January 16 – Wind still ahead. Made no progress all night. Sighted Mount Egmont again today.
January 17 – Breeze very light, but more favourable. Going only three knots. Caught a small shark – the first fish caught since leaving England.
January 18 – Sunday. Fair wind and only thirty miles from Wellington at six o'clock in the morning, when all sails were set, and we expected to be there to dinner at one o'clock. We had a pilot on board, the wind blowing strong and right ahead when we reached the entrance to the harbour, or port Nicholson as it is called, which is only half mile wide and not very easily taken with a head wind. However the pilot made the attempt to beat her up but failed and had to cast anchor. It blew a whole gale all night.
January 19 – Set sail again this morning with a nice breeze. We got a beautiful view of the hills as the braw old Rose was beating up. We all had good exercise pulling ropes at putting the ship about, as the crew were very weak, but we were all glad to get a little exercise, and could manage the poop deck with only two soldiers first rate.
The town of Wellington lies at the head of a beautiful bay about nine miles in length. We dropped anchor at twelve o'clock about half a mile from the town, just fifteen weeks exactly since the pilot left us at the Downs. The town is very like Ashton, only the hills are a great deal higher and the houses rising to a great height. There is one street on the level, just like Gourock. Then the houses rise up the hills to a great height and command a fine view of the bay, which is one of the finest in the world and sheltered all round by very high hills.
The houses are very neat and clean, and all built of wood, as no other kind will stand the shock of earthquakes, which are very frequent. The country all around Wellington is one continuation of hills, all running up to narrow tops. All volcanic I suppose although none of them has broken out in this neighbourhood. The appearance of the country at first sight is very rough and barren indeed, but when once brought into cultivation it grows any sort of crops very well. However, there is very little cultivation here. Sheep is the best paying thing, and suits the hills better than tillage. This being the seventeenth anniversary of the settlement, there was a whole birthday, with racing horse, foot racing, and all sorts of sport, all of which we enjoyed very much after being nearly four months at sea. The natives are a very hardy race – rather dark-coloured and joined in all sports. They are quite subdued by the whites now and are made a laughing sport of. As the ship is to be here for six or eight weeks, we are going on to Canterbury per steamer which leaves here on Saturday, 24th. The captain will only pay half our passage money, which is 3 pounds 7 shilling and 6 pence. The average run is thirty hours. We have been ashore every day since our arrival. It cost 1 shilling and 6 pence to land and the same to return, and all the ships cargo has to be landed in lighters, which makes very slow work, so we all made up our minds to go on, as the loss of time would be very great, and we expect to arrive in the middle of the Riccarton harvest.
I called on Mr Lyon, one or Mrs Deans's trusties, who lives in Wellington and he asked us to take tea, so Helen and I took tea with the family and were treated very kindly. Mr Deans had been here lately and told them we were coming so we were quite at home at once. Mr Lyons is a stationer in Wellington. He bought an acre of town land and has built a beautiful house.
I think he has a 1000 acres of sheep run in the country. He was one of the first settlers who landed here seventeen years ago.
The town of Wellington is growing very fast and appears to be a capital place for business but from its hilly nature it can never become a great place – a city. About nine miles from here there is a fine tract of level, fertile land, but I have not been able to see it, being so much taken up with sports. I must now conclude as we are just packing up to go on board the steamer. I am glad to say we are all very well, and as fat as pigs, and also in first rate spirits, and now the voyage is nearly over it appears just as a pleasure sail, only a little too expensive.
No person need be afraid of coming to New Zealand for seasickness. I think we are all a great deal better of the voyage. Although we suffered a little at first, one soon gets used to it. Please overlook all the blunders as our writing desk on board ship is very unsteady. With kind love to all friends, best respects to all acquaintances, and kisses to all the little ones. As a last request I dedicate this to Aunt Jess hoping you are all well. I remain dear friend, yours affectionately, |
